Hello friends! I promised you a guide on how to create pleated trousers, and here it is.
For my version, I used the Hollywood Trousers pattern, but you could also opt for the Peckham Trousers if you're looking for a slimmer leg. As I mentioned before, don't hesitate to mix and match elements from our patterns. I love borrowing different waistband techniques and closures, adding belt loops, and more. You'll soon see that our upcoming spring trouser pattern will provide even more customization options!
Let's get started! Begin with your Trousers Front piece. I like to position the pleat roughly one-third of the way from the center-front waist to the side seam. This helps visually align the darts approximately halfway across your center front when worn (since the outer portion will wrap around your sides). Mark this spot on the waistline like so:
Next, draw a straight line from the marked point down to the bottom edge of the trousers. Ensure this line remains parallel to the grainline on your pattern piece. Cut the trousers from the waist down along this line. It's a good idea to leave the pattern piece attached at the hem edge to act as a sort of paper "hinge" during the next step.
Decide how large you'd like your pleat to be—remember to double this measurement because the pleat folds back on itself. For example, a 1-inch pleat requires spreading the top edge of the trousers by 2 inches. However, avoid going overboard with the size of your pleat. I kept mine at just half an inch (1 inch) wide, aiming for a subtle pleated appearance without adding excessive bulk. I recommend keeping your pleat between a minimum of half an inch (1 inch) and a maximum of one and a half inches (3 inches). A three-inch pleat across the front of each leg adds quite a bit of extra ease, so keep that in mind.
Spread the waist edge accordingly, ensuring both sections of the pattern remain flat and connected at the hem edge. The pleat should be widest at the waist and taper gradually toward the hemline. Slide a strip of paper beneath the two pieces and secure them together using tape.
Draw pleat lines along the edges of the wedge-shaped space created between the two sections of the pattern. Fold the pattern piece along these lines (pretend you're creating a pleat) and trim any excess paper along the top seamline while the pleat is closed. By the way, pleats typically point toward the center front, with the fullness facing the side seams, though this isn't a strict rule. Customize it however you prefer. Once done, unfold the pleat, and your pattern is ready.
When sewing the trousers, start by constructing the pleat. Proceed with the regular front pocket assembly afterward.
That's all there is to it!
You can grab your own copy of the Hollywood Trousers pattern [here](#). Consider the Peckham Trousers as well for their slimmer leg and front/back pocket options. Both patterns are built on the same base, featuring a forward inseam for better shaping through the rise. I hope you'll tag us so we can see what you've created! Enjoy the process!
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In case you're curious about the tools I used, here's a quick rundown:
- **Fabric**: A medium-weight cotton twill works beautifully for pleated trousers.
- **Notions**: Ensure you have plenty of pins and a sturdy needle for handling thicker fabric layers.
- **Thread**: Match your thread color closely to the fabric to ensure a clean finish.
Feel free to experiment with colors and textures to make your trousers truly unique. Let me know how it goes—I'd love to hear your thoughts or see pictures of your finished project!
Have fun sewing, and happy crafting!
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