Hello friends! I promised you a tutorial on how to create pleated trousers, and today I’m excited to share it with you. I used our Hollywood Trousers pattern for this project, but if you're looking for something with a slimmer leg, you could also try our Peckham Trousers pattern. As I mentioned before, feel free to experiment with different elements from our patterns—mix and match waistbands, closures, and belt loops. You'll soon see that our upcoming spring trouser pattern will provide even more customization options!
Let’s dive into the process. First, start with your Trousers Front piece. I like to place the pleat about one-third of the way from the center-front waist to the side seam. This placement helps the darts visually land in the right spot when worn, as the outer part of the pleat will naturally wrap around your side. Mark this spot on the waistline, like so:
Next, draw a straight line from your marked spot down to the bottom edge of the trousers. Ensure this line remains parallel to the grainline on your pattern piece. Cut the trousers from the waist to the hem along this line. To simplify things, you can leave the pattern piece attached at the hem to act as a sort of paper hinge for the next step.
Decide how large you want your pleat. Remember, the pleat folds back on itself, so double the desired size. For example, if you want a 1-inch pleat, spread the top edge by 2 inches. While it's tempting to go big, I recommend keeping the pleat between 1/2 inch (1 inch) and 1.5 inches (3 inches) wide. A wider pleat adds more fabric to the front, which can affect the overall fit. Once you've decided on the size, gently spread the waist edge according to your measurement, ensuring the two parts of the pattern remain flat and touch (or stay connected via the paper hinge at the hem).
Now, draw lines along the edges of the wedge-shaped space created between the two parts of the pattern piece. Fold the pattern along these lines to form a temporary pleat, and trim any excess paper strip along the top seamline while the pleat is closed. Pleats typically point toward the center front, with the fullness facing the side seams, though this is just a guideline. Feel free to adjust based on your preference. Unfold the pleat, and voilà ! Your pattern is now ready.
When sewing the trousers, tackle the pleat first. From there, continue with the regular front pocket construction and any other steps.
That’s all there is to it!
If you'd like to try this out, you can grab your own copy of the Hollywood Trousers pattern here. The Peckham Trousers are another great option if you prefer a slimmer leg and additional pocket choices. Both patterns are built on the same base design, featuring a forward inseam for better shaping through the rise. I’d love to see what you create, so don’t forget to tag us in your projects! Have fun experimenting and happy sewing!
As always, if you have any questions or need further guidance, feel free to reach out. Happy crafting, and stay tuned for more tutorials and updates!
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