Customizing a Dream - Managing Director of Van Cleef & Arpels Asia

Five years ago, Van Cleef & Arpels had the idea of ​​coming to China to develop, but it had not moved. Nowadays, the more rival stores are opened, the more Van Cleef & Arpels could no longer sit still and went straight to Beijing. "We think that the time for coming is not too late, it's just good."

Customization, from the very beginning of the birth of Van Cleef & Arpels, was its biggest selling point.

Give a piece of cloth, you can turn it into the highest realm of the garment industry --- "custom clothing HAUTE COUTURE". What if you give you the best diamonds and gems in the world? Of course it is possible, but in this world, only a handful of 30 French craftsmen can do such a "tailoring job."

The owner of these 30 craftsmen is Van Cleef & Arpels. Next year is the centenary of Van Cleef & Arpels, which has traveled to China for 99 years. In October, it made its debut in Beijing's Guomao in the mainland's first boutique.

In the corner of the shop, there is a French gentleman with long blond hair and handsome nose. From time to time, he smiles and looks at the jewellery in the window, and sometimes communicates with the guests with his eyes. He does not seem to be eager to find an empty seat for them, but he is more than happy to let them enjoy the “jewelry garments” at close range. He is Benjamin Vuchot, Managing Director of Van Cleef & Arpels Asia.

Misalignment with opponents

"Frankly speaking, your opponent entered the Chinese market as early as 15 years ago. Is it too late for you to come here? Is there any pressure for market development?"

Benjamin took a sip of champagne without hesitation: “Oh, no.” He also had an exaggerated negative expression on his face. “In fact, we actually think that the time for us to come is not too late, it's just good. ”

Benjamin spent about 10 years in Hong Kong. The pronunciation of the word “just right” was very standard. He also gave himself a Chinese name called Peng Weicheng. In the eyes of Benjamin, who have been influenced by Chinese culture, compared to five years ago, China's luxury spending power has increased rapidly. This led many luxury brands to see the dawn of the East after encountering the bottleneck in the birthplace.

Five years ago, Van Cleef & Arpels had the idea of ​​coming to China to develop, but it had not moved. In the world's top jewelry in the Chinese market, Cartier, the first pioneer to flex its muscles, Van Cleef & Arpels did not choose to follow up, but chose to do a wall-top view, wait and see opponents, and more wait and see China.

In fact, Van Cleef & Arpels is definitely not a "conservative." Since the beginning of the 20th century, seaside resort style has prevailed in Europe. Van Cleef & Arpels has been targeting the market. Between 1909 and 1935, it boldly set up branches in several luxury beach resort hotspots and spa resorts; in 1939, Van Cleef & Arpels made a The key decision was to set up an office in New York, New York, on the other side of the Atlantic. He immediately entered 744 Fifth Street, New York. After the Second World War, Van Cleef & Arpels took advantage of the opportunity to stay afloat. In 1974, the layout of the Kingdom of the Kingdom expanded. After arriving in Japan in the 1980s, Van Cleef & Arpels continued to enter many major cities in the world. But except Japan, which is the largest market in Asia, Van Cleef & Arpels's business has been concentrated in Europe and North America so far.

Nowadays, the more opponent stores are opened, the more Van Cleef & Arpels could no longer sit still, turning their way and heading straight for Beijing.

Benjamin is not very willing to admit that peers actually play a good role in the wind bar, at least let them have a reference version. However, the personality of Cartier chose Shanghai, and Van Cleef & Arpels, who won with grace, chose Beijing. “We want to highlight the cultural heritage behind the brand. We hope that in the context of a strong cultural temperament, the brand recognition will be higher. Beijing is the most suitable for this kind of temperament.”

Benjamin, only 33 years old this year, talks about the brand's 100-year history, and it seems that there is a big gap between them. If he is engrossed in his heroism, it is easier for people to accept an argument that is “misaligned with the opponent”.

Actively produce yourself

"You can't use much market share to occupy, how many jewelry items to sell each year, and how many stores opened this year to measure the competitiveness of Van Cleef & Arpels, because Van Cleef & Arpels offers advanced custom jewelry services. It is a group of extremely limited customers.” Benjamin’s answer is “real”. “They have strong spending power. Therefore, we do not pursue the growth in the number of such customers. Even if there is growth, it is limited. ”

The history of Van Cleef & Arpels began with the marriage of two jewellery families. Customization, from the very beginning of the birth of Van Cleef & Arpels, was its biggest selling point. The former Queen of Egypt, Nasri, Princess Fasiya, Prince of Monaco, and now Sharon Stone, Uma Thurman, Julia Roberts, and other actresses, will wear Van Cleef & Arpels as mutual dominance and victory. Negative "trump card".

“To be different, then to customize your dreams. There is no other way to save you from the stream of Others, other than ordering. Now, you have to produce your own initiative.” Benjamin continued to emphasize, “We We don't quickly open one boutique after another, we only focus on active production. When Cartier first entered China, jewelry was not the main business but the watch.” Benjamin took the initiative to make a comparison with his opponent and blinked blindly. The implication of Benjamin is that Van Cleef & Arbey's business "specialty" and technology patents are enough to stand up to the market, compared to the production of watches by other peer brands and the production of leather goods.

Van Cleef & Arpels most noticeable is that he invented a new gemstone mosaic - "Invisible Setting method" (Invisible Setting). The gemstones arranged the stones closely together, without any metal or claws, but instead used ordinary methods of orbiting to cut them into the same size and insert them one by one. This method is very time-consuming, but its results can make the gemstones fit on the skin, showing different degrees of luster as the limbs. Van Cleef & Arpels owns such a 50-year patent for the “Inlaying Method”.

Exclusive story

The 30 "tailor" masters of Van Cleef & Arpels hold this "patented" technology.

After the No. 22 storefront at Place Vendôme in Paris, along the stairs of DNA molecules, spiraling up, a priceless "tailor shop" is displayed before you. Some of the "tailor" masters have just graduated from school, while others have worked here for a long time. Jewels are presented to them in the most primitive state. In the face of new "clothing materials", "tailor" combined with unique secrets, or "cut", or "sewing." Downstairs is an endless stream of customers and endless orders... For over a hundred years, high-end custom jewelry has become a celebrity, wealthy, imperial family and other beloved “Jinyi jade”.

"Usually, celebrities and celebrities will tell us, 'I'm going to participate in an activity and I hope to wear your necklace or ring...' There is no more specific request. They trust the craftsman's craft very much and know that the artisans know what they are looking for. "Speaking of these "exclusive stories", French jewelers' blend of elegance and resourcefulness is so arrogant.

The craftsman designed an effect map and waited for customer satisfaction before starting the selection and production. Sometimes, they also receive special requests, such as Maria Kelly's desire to make a butterfly ornament like her. When she sang for the microphone, the fingers were very eye-catching. The craftsmen designed a ring that could be worn on multiple fingers. Today this has become a hot classic style.

In the interview, Benjamin did not care about comparing Van Cleef & Arpels to Cartier because one was his current brand and the other was the former one. Benjamin, who studied in Madrid, Spain, served in Cartier between 1995 and 2002, and was promoted to Director of the General Motors Group of the Far East Region of Asian Group of Cartier Asia Pacific Limited. As Cartier thrived, Benjamin chose to leave and re-lead the jewelry brand under the same group to start a new round of development. In 2002, Benjamin was appointed as Managing Director of Van Cleef & Arpels Asia.

Benjamin was reluctant to talk about Cartier’s years of work. He commented “This is the two brands I love and Van Cleef & Arpels is more challenging”.

Benjamin's motto is: Don't leave regrets for yourself. If you want to do it, do it and do your best. "Because when you chose from the beginning, you began to order your own life."

Custom life path

NBD: Give you the opportunity to order. What will you most want?

Benjamin: A playground where all my favorite games and my favorite friends are. Everyone plays together. How long does it take to play? How about playing with popcorn and Coke? Background music is also what I like. There are movies to see.

NBD: How much are you willing to pay for the order?

Benjamin: You didn't mean to give me a chance. Isn't it that I don't want to spend money? But if I have enough money, I will use it to order my playground. I stayed inside, gave people a chance to open a machine and put a movie.

NBD: For what reason did you choose what you ordered?

Benjamin: Life is boring, so it needs a playground.

NBD: Do you want to be unique?

Benjamin: I don't want to. I hope to have such a playground everywhere. I am happy to go anywhere.

NBD: What is the price for ordering Van Cleef & Arpels?

Benjamin: If the requirements for customization are consistent with the spirit of the brand, there is no maximum or minimum price limit for this product.

NBD: Why do people want to order jewelry? Is it new or different?

Benjamin: Custom jewelry may be an engagement ring, it may be the crown of the veil of a wedding dress, or it may be for the first child born. Because some people have a higher status and the ability to purchase and order unique, they want a jewelry that represents personal style.

NBD: Is a customized work a resistance to popularization?

Benjamin: There are many people who buy jewellery with popular design styles, and many people seek uniqueness. Of course, this depends on people's desire to own products. Different people buy jewelry for different reasons.