é—½Changing the changing fashion of the apparel industry

The fashion buyer's exchange brought a term that is both familiar and unfamiliar to local apparel companies: “buyers”. Industry insiders believe that the market- and consumer-oriented buyer model will represent the future of the domestic apparel industry.

The popular buyer system In the current shoe and clothing industry, the order system operation model is the most widely used and most mature model in the domestic brand market. For brand owners, the operating system of order management is simple and easy to operate, and the production plan is strong. After handing over terminal management to dealers, the company only needs to do a good job of market maintenance management and supporting services. The remaining manpower can be used for market expansion and Inspections, market research and analysis. The brand enterprise's market management system only needs a customer service center, a statistical analysis department, and a warehouse distribution center to be fully qualified.

On the other hand, choosing the order system can also win time for the brand. The products were all ready before the market was listed two months ago. Even if there are quality problems, they can be solved in advance and generally will not affect sales.

However, it should also be noted that the ordering system is more conducive to optimizing the overall resources of the brand. Compared to brands, the benefits that dealers get in the ordering system are not as great. The buyout order system often puts huge pressure on the dealer's capital chain, and at the same time, the digestion of the inventory also faces enormous challenges.

In recent years, the shoe and clothing industry has continuously suffered from the pressure of inventory, and the drawbacks of the order system and market reaction are increasingly exposed. If the scale operation is the primary stage for the development of shoe and clothing retail enterprises, fine management is a new stage for the development of retail enterprises. Improving the output of single stores has become a new direction of development. The career of buyers has emerged under this background.

Wang Jianyuan, general manager of Peak E-Commerce Division, said: “What is a buyer? Simply put, it is the person responsible for every aspect of the product from buying to selling, ensuring that the product is maximally profitable and has minimal operational risk during the distribution process. ."

In terms of buying goods, buyers should make accurate demand analysis based on historical sales, combined with changes in popular direction and consumer trends, and the purchase plan must be matched with the listed band, visual presentation and product collocation of the terminal. When goods arrive, the buyer must plan the number of models listed on the terminal to keep it in a reasonable range. After the product is on the market, according to the sales performance of the product, the life cycle of each garment is forecasted, and the product is listed for the boot period, the regular sales period, the discount promotion period, and the special clearance period to ensure the profitability of the product. Ensure that the entire inventory has a reasonable inventory turnover rate. The final buyer must also give a unified guidance to the sales staff how to introduce products to consumers.

This buyer-centric buyer company represents a refined business model, or it will become the future development trend of the footwear industry.

It takes a long time for many local apparel industry people to stay on the ground to maintain a conservative attitude towards the formation of such a sample procurement market. Shi Hairong, chairman of the Wolverhampton family, believes that the surface of accessories will not be able to provide the soil for the sample purchase market. In recent years, lions have lagged behind in the development of surface materials. Sample fabrics have been relatively expensive, and their competitiveness has declined. With the rise of ground accessories wholesale markets such as Changshu, Hangzhou, and Guangzhou, the market for lions and accessories has been further restricted. . The general Shishi downstream clothing manufacturers accounted for the general situation, the account period is too long, resulting in the formation of capital pressure on the upstream side of the accessories business, in recent years continue to move to Jiangsu, Zhejiang and Shanghai. The transfer of the fabric business from Shishi to Hongjin Pai in Keqiao, Shaoxing, said that Shishi fabricators will normally receive orders of more than 2 km, while in Hangzhou and Changshu, many fabric factories can place orders for hundreds of meters. The pattern of small batches of fast turnover orders in the apparel industry has become a trend, and the industry competitiveness of Shishi surface accessories has become weak.

The R&D and design link has always been a short board for the school's garments. The buyer hopes to bring the Shishi into a veritable Chinese apparel design valley by bringing together top-notch designers and provide clothing that follows fashion trends. Industry insiders say that if they can successfully gather Designers, on the front of clothing R & D and design, not only for the shaping of the sample purchase market, but also a powerful driving force for the transformation and upgrading of the school.

Wang Jianyuan also pointed out that there is no real buyer in Quanzhou. These so-called “buyers” are searching for best-selling styles, and copying and making copies with the division's editors. This is still a considerable distance from the real buyers. The so-called buying system is a market-oriented operation mode, covering the six links of market information collection, product planning, product procurement, distribution control, logistics and distribution, and product promotion. It is a sophisticated and rational system engineering. The buyer is only a part of this system.

Shi Hairong believes that the core competitiveness of the buying enterprise is actually the supply chain system of the commodity. It needs fine management science. In the Fujian garment industry, few companies can match it. Many local companies are unable to keep up with the supply chain, resulting in a series of problems, such as excessive purchases, overpayments for good funds, timely reimbursement of orders, supplemental orders and large stocks. A series of elaborate management to solve the problem, but the designer or the owner of the business owner often lacks a profound understanding of the rational scientific management, which is an important reason for the buyer system is difficult to land in Quanzhou.

The cultivation of a mature buyer takes a long period of time, which also becomes a restraint for buyers to land. Wang Jianyuan stated that buyers need professional knowledge. They must not only have an excellent sense of beauty but also have a keen sense of smell in the market, but the process of training is very long. He said: "The development of a buyer requires time and costs. Generally, it takes 2 years to mature, and it takes only one season to have a feeling. After two experienced mature buyers."

Ke Huaqiang, president of the Hong Kong Fashion Design Institute Shishi Branch, also stated that the ZARA model is difficult to duplicate in Quanzhou and even in China. “The most obvious reason is that there is no clothing company in the country that can own more than 2,000 designer teams. What's more important is that it is difficult for domestic clothing companies to learn ZARA's rapid response supply chain model. The products were developed one year in advance and out of touch with the market.”

Related links Internet fast fashion buyer model The Internet fast fashion brand Han Du clothing house, with a unique operating model, quickly became Taobao's ranking of women's brands ranked e-commerce brand. According to the company’s CEO Zhao Yingguang, from 2008 to 2012, Handu’s sales were 3 million yuan, 13 million yuan, 100 million yuan, 300 million yuan, and 600 million yuan respectively.

In 2007, Zhao Yingguang, who was engaged in Sino-Korea trade, accidentally went to South Korea YSP online clothing sales company to visit. A huge studio, 10,000 square meters of warehouse, 30,000 orders per day in the promotion season, and a few small supply chain models made him shine. After the Spring Festival in 2008, he resigned from the work of the foreign trade company and launched the Handu clothing project.

In the first year of his business, Zhao Yingguang chose to start from Purchasing. He recruited a group of students from the Department of Korean Language and Fashion Design. They selected 1,000 of the 3,000 clothing brands in South Korea and distributed them to 40 people. Each person picks up 8 new products from the official websites of 25 brands every day. This means that Zhao Yingguang's Taobao shop has 300 new products every day.

Zhao Yingguang’s original intention of introducing the buying system was because the sales team was too weak and “to control the risk, we had to shift the pressure to the product department.”

A year later, the "buyers team" began to set up. They choose the styles as before and sample their clothes. Due to the differences in lifestyle and cultural habits between China and South Korea that led to the differences in apparel production, the team had to make detailed improvements after purchasing samples from South Korea.

In 2010, a complete buyer performance evaluation system was established. The buyer team is generally composed of 3-5 individuals. Among them, the operation commissioner serves as the team leader and is responsible for the operation of the group's products; the buyer is responsible for the search and development of the models; the commodity production commissioner is responsible for the product shooting and page production and maintenance; the order management specialist Responsible for all the processes of the order; the clerk is responsible for handling transactional work.

After entering the buyer group, the company provided initial operating funds, and each person's usage limit was 20,000-50,000 yuan. Each team's use of funds in the next month is 70% of sales in the previous month.

Zhao Yingguang introduced that if a buyer’s team’s monthly sales are 5 million, according to relevant rules, the group will have 3.5 million operating expenses next month. In the opposite situation, the 150,000 group did not make a performance in the month. Naturally, there was not much operating expenses next month. The situation with no funding basically did not last long, and the buyer team announced its dissolution.

By 2013, Handu has trained more than 100 buyer groups and 5 product departments. Within each product department, all product categories are complete, but each group has its own professional category, such as the development of knitwear, and some development jackets.